Steamed Goat’s Milk Cheese Flan with Artichokes
Just to say things as they are, the location of this restaurant isn’t the best; if you don’t already know of it you’re not likely to stumble upon it. For me it was a pleasant discovery; I was returning from the “Natura tra vino, arte e fotografia,” a show organized at Ferrara by the PIV Association, where I had showed a number of my photographs alongside the works of Arianna Fugazza, when my stomach demanded attention.
Trattoria Tubino
It was after all past 1 PM and I had just started the trip home; After a few KM I realized I should leave the A13 highway, and did so at Altedo, following signs for San Pietro in Casale. After about 4 km we reached the outskirts of the town, which are desolate, but my stomach didn’t care, and I asked a local where we might go. He replied that the Trattoria Tubino was a couple of intersections up. The place looked anonymous, with a few cars parked outside, but I gathered my courage and entered.
Zucchini with their Blossoms, Stuffed
The hall doesn’t beget enthusiasm, but rather the thought that some redecorating might be in order, but that’s not important: I’m not here to see a show, but to eat, well if possible.
In addition to Laura and me, there are a couple of other clients at another table who seemed to be bleased by their antipasti. A woman brings us the menu; there isn’t a wine list but I can choose among the wines on display in the cooler, and adds, “If you don’t want a whole bottle we serve these by the glass.” Well, there isn’t a price list, but they don’t ask for a lot by the glass, and I see that the selection of local and national brands is good.
While we await our food I can’t help but bite into the hot Coppie Ferraresi (the classic bread of the region, made by shaping two snakes fo dough together into an X); it’s not my favorite, as I grew up on home-baked, but it’s good hot, especially when one is hungry.
Stuffed Zucchini Blossom
Here we go! The waitress (who turns out to be an employee, not the cook’s wife, as I thought…) brings us a starter, mignon zucchini with their flowers stuffed, dusted with cheese, and browned. Of sober, inviting aspecct, tiny sweet zucchini, four pieces with two fillings, one meat-based and the other with ricotta and herbs. Not at all bad, with the zucchini perfectly cooked, and slightly crunchy.
For the second selection our choices diverged. Laura opted for a steamed goat’s milk cheese and asparagus flan, and I for linguine with duck sauce and artichokes.
Linguine With Duck Ragu and Artichokes
And at this point we realized that the trattoria, despite its decor, was quite capable of satisfying our palates; the dishes were werll balanced, tasty, and perfectly cooked. In particular, the flan was perfect, with a light browning that really brought out the flavors, while the asparagus were top quality and very tasty.
Perfect linguini too, cooked al dente and well seasoned with dusk sauce, a dish that seems simple, but was perfectly balanced thanks to the presence fo the very tender artichokes.
Sweet and Savory Fritto
We were close to being satiated, but didn’t want to forgo the desserts, and asked for a “Sweet and Savory Fry,” a tremendously succulent dish with zucchini, potatoes, and onions on the savory side, and apple and cream fritters for the sweet. Astonishing!
And then desserts proper: I had a Chilled Torrone Pudding with Melted Chocolate, a triumphant blend of flavors: The chocolate was bitter, and perfect for balancing the sweetenss of the noughat, a real treat.
Chilled Semifreddo with Melted Chocolate
Laura had the Ricotta and Cake zuccotto; the colors of the dish balanced perfectly with the blue of the plate, while the flavors seemed more feminine: delicate, gentle, and sober, but not less overwhelming.
In short, the Trattoria Tubino was a real surprise, and honest too: expect to pay 30-35 Euros depending upon what you order. You do have to know about it; it’s in the outskirts of town, and without signs to point it out. In our case hunger guided us, and now that we have found it we won’t hesitate to return. It’s well worth it!
Trattoria Tubino
Via Pescerelli, 98 – San Pietro in Casale (BO)
Tel. 051-811484
Open daily except Fridays and Saturdays at lunch
Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.
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Kyle Phillips
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