The 2013 Chianti Classico Anteprima

The 2013 Chianti Classico Presentation

The 2013 Chianti Classico Presentation

This year’s Chianti Classico Anteprima was once again held in Florence’s Stazione Leopolda, and as has been the case in the past it was beautifully organized. Unfortunately, for personal reasons I was only able to attend for one the two days, and therefore my look at the wines was more cursory than I might have liked.

In part because of this, I decided to concentrate primarily on the Chianti Classico Vini d’Annata, or vintage wines, tasting a number of 2011 wines and then working back to older vintages, and in some cases tasting the Riserve as well.

Chianti Classico's New Logo

Chianti Classico’s New Logo

Before we get to the wines, there are some new administrative developments in the Chianti Classico appellation, one cosmetic and the other of substantial. To begin with the cosmetic, the Consorzio has redesigned the famed Gallo Nero or black rooster, making him brighter and more upstanding than he was. Looks nice!

The more substantial development is Gran Selezione, a new class of Chianti Chianti Classico that will take its place along side Chianti Classico D’Annata, the vintage wine, and Chianti Classico Riserva, the Reserve. Gran Selezione is the new top of the pyramid, wines made exclusively from grapes grown in-house – no purchasing grapes from one’s neighbor for it – and from grapes whose future destination, the Gran Selezione, is declared at the time of the harvest. With respect to Riserva wines, which can be released after two years, the Gran Selezione must age for 30 months, at least three of which must be in bottle. I will be curious to taste them; since the wine was introduced with the 2012 vintage it is now aging we won’t be seeing any until late 2015, if my count is right.

The wines, tasted February 18 2013, in the order in which I tasted the vintage wines.

Thoughts about the vintages?

To be honest, in skipping from vintage to vintage I paid more attention tot he wines than the vintages, but at one point jotted:  Lots of very ripe fruit in the 2011 vintage, ripe cherries and cherry plum mixes, also jammy notes and sweetness on the nose.

Monteraponi

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Barrel sample
Lively ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and some wet tree bark; pleasing complexity for a barrel sample. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with pleasant cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight greenish burr. Quite promising, and will be a perfect wine for simple meals built around a grill.

Monteraponi Baron Ugo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Lively garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, and quite young, with sour cherry fruit supported by some mentholated notes and greenish accents, alcoholic warmth, and delicate dried roses, some spice, and slight caramel. Considerable finesse. On the palate it’s bright, with rich slightly sour cherry  fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a great deal of nervous energy and flow into a clean slightly bitter sour cherry finish with a pleasant tannic underpinning. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and eminently drinkable; it will work well now with a Porterhouse cut, but will also richly reward those who are blessed with the patience to give it 3-5 years before they open it.
90

Castello di Ama

Castello di Ama ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with slightly brambly red berry fruit supported by some underbrush and slight savory accents, with hints of white glue, which may sound odd but work well. Harmonious and young. On the palate it’s medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate vegetal acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth —  there is a slight greenish burr — and flow into a clean slightly brambly finish with berry fruit underpinning. Deft, and quite elegant, and will drink well with grilled or roasted meats, in particular red meats.
2 stars

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rather languid cherry  fruit supported by cedar and hints – just hints – of Szechuan preserved vegetable which develop into vegetal notes as the wine opens. Welcoming On the palate it’s ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity and by tannins that are very smooth on the outset, and then dry some in the finish, gaining cedary accents. It’s still quite young and needs another couple of years to come together, though one could enjoy it already with succulent roast beef. I would give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Isole e Olena

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly cherry  and forest berry fruit supported by some vegetal acidity that’s fairly tart, and by some cedar. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly bright ripe cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean cherry laced tannic finish with slight cedary overtones. Pleasant in a young fresh key, and will age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono
 
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Barrel sample
Lively cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, with violets and ripe cherry plum fruit supported by some spice. On the palate it’s rich, with lively slightly jammy cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that will be smooth, albeit with a burr to provide direction, in a year’s time. Quite promising in a rich fruit driven key, and will drink quickly.

Barone Ricasoli

Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Barrel sample
Almost impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry  plum fruit supported by some cedar and moderate alcohol. On the palate it’s ample and quite smooth, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory tannins that have a slight cedary burr, and by moderate acidity; the acidity surrenders its role to the tannins, and the overall effect is one of considerable polish in a fruit driven international key; if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably, but if you are more traditionally minded you may find yourself wishing for more acidity.

Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by delicate cedar and some greenish vegetal accents, with some warmth as well. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean warm rather tannic finish. It’s quite young, especially on the nose, and will profit considerably from another year in bottle, though one could drink it now with a steak if one felt one had to. I would give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Castellinuzza e Piuca

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Barrel sample
Fairly deep garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with red berry fruit supported by floral accents and some lively red berry fruit acidity; the effect is rather cheeky. On the palate it’s bright, with fairly rich slightly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by brash berry fruit acidity an by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a clean slightly dusky tannic finish. Promising in a deft, lively, fairly traditional key.

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with deft balsamic accents supporting mentholated notes and the heather of a cut field. Not much fruit, but it is harmonious. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr to them and flow into a spicy finish. It’s oakier than some of the other wines poured, and while the oak integrates well, it did also knock back the acidity some.
2 stars

Castello di Fonterutoli

Castello di Fonterutoli Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with fairly bright cherry  plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and some spice, in particular hints of mace. On the palate it’s ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a fairly young cedary burr, and flow into a fairly dry cedar laced finish with cherry plum underpinning. It needs a year to reabsorb the oak, at which point it will be pleasant in a smooth international key; if you like the style, which consciously keeps acidity in check, you will enjoy it. If you are more traditionally minded you may find yourself wishing for more acidity.
2 stars

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with berry fruit supported by cedar and some sweet greenish notes, and also hints of white glue that are likely wood – fruit interaction. Young in an international key. On the palate it’s ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by acidity that is more lemony than I expected, and by tannins that have cedary accents and flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. The palate does display the oak one expects of the international style, but also a brightness and acidity of fruit of a sort that is more traditional, and given this I would expect the nose with time to follow the palate over towards a more traditional  feel. Interesting in any case, and a wine that made me think; because of its brightness it will work well with succulent meats.
2 stars

Castello di Monastero

Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim paling to hints of garnet. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft slightly jammy cherry plum fruit supported by some violets and some vegetal accents, with slight cedar as well. On the palate it’s fairly bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by fairly mineral acidity, and bouquet tannins that have a warm youthful burr and flow into a warm cherry plum finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews; I would give it  a year to come together and for the tannins to smooth some.
2 stars

Castello di Querceto

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit more rustic than some, with lathered horse and savory balsamic accents mingled with some red berry fruit and warm balsamic acidity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, thought they do display a warm Sangiovese burr, and flow into a warm slightly tannic cherry finish. Pleasant in a more traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Concadoro

A Chianti Dinner

A Chianti Dinner

Concadoro Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by violets and slight vegetal notes mingled with some cedar. Fresh. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm rather tannic finish. It’s pleasant in a rather ripe key, but needs a few more months for the tannins to smooth a little and fold in. At present it will be nice with succulent grilled meats, including sausages or lamb chops.
2 stars

Felsina

Felsina – Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cherry fruit supported by cherry plum acidity and by some floral accents; it’s quite fresh. On the palate it’s a bit duskier than I expected from the nose, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a peppery cedar laced burr, and flow into a rather brooding cedar laced finish. It’s quite young and gives an impression of looking out at the world from under beetle brows; it’s not a wine I would drink by the glass far from the table, but it will work quite well with succulent red meats and will also age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Fèlsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and hardwood ash with a grating of graphite shavings thrown in; there’s not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it’s ample and quite soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by mineral berry fruit acifity and by tannins that are quite smooth,a nd flow into a warm smooth berry fruit finish with some mineral acidity for direction. Pleasant in a softer key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you like brasher wines, you will instead find it soft.
2 stars

Podere Castellinuzza

Podere Castellinuzza – Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and cherry  plum fruit supported by some spice and by some greenish vegetal accents. Pleasant in a young key. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by savory mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and have a slightly peppery burr that flows into a fairly long warm fruit laced tannic finish. Quite approachable in a young fresh key, and will drink well with grilled or roasted red meats. A second bottle will likely come in handy.
2 stars

Rocca di Montegrossi

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by cedar and some slightly balsamic spicy notes that bring cumin to mind, and also by violets and some plums. Quite fresh. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with deft cherry  plum fruit supported by warm slightly sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. Graceful, and though one could give it time, which it would profit from, it’s a wine that will also be very nice now with grilled or roasted meats. If I hadn’t been at a tasting I wouldn’t have poured it out.
2 stars

Rocca di Montegrossi Vigneto San Marcellino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry  and red berry fruit supported by warm acidity and by some spicy notes; there’s also some leather. On the palate it’s ample and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity and tannins that are initially silky, though as they progress they display a greenish cedary burr; the finish is fairly long, fading into tannic dryness. Powerful, and a child of the 2007 vintage, which produced many wines that had this dry finish; it’s probably set enough in its ways by now that it won’t change tremendously (and in particular the finish is what it is), but it has pleasant fruit and the tannic aggressiveness will allow it to pair well with succulent red meats that need something to clear the palate between bites.
2 stars

Terre di Perseto

Terre di Perseto Albòre Chianti Classico DOCG 2011
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry  fruit supported by some jammy plum accents and slight greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky slightly greenish burr, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It’s fairly traditional, and while it’s not a wine to drink far from the table, it will work quite well with foods, supporting what it’s served with, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer softer fruit forward wines it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Villa Pomona

Villa Pomona Chianti Classico DOCG 2011

Pale garnet ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather vegetal, with red berry fruit that gains in intensity as it opens. Pleasant and fresh. On the palate it’s a little less rich than I had expected, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with greenish accents and some peppery spice. It’s fairly direct, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Castello di Monsanto
 
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively cherry  ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense – it gives an impression of holding back – and as it opens reveal red berry fruit supported by  slight mentholated accents and deft underlying cedar, while there is berry fruit acidity to provide direction. Pleasant and still developing. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a fairly long sour cherry laced finish with a deft tannic underpinning, Quite elegant, and will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats now, though it will reward those with the patience to give it 2-3 years or more to develop.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is rich, and quite fresh for a riserva, with deft cherry fruit supported by spice and floral accents, a mixture of roses and hints of violets, and some delicate balsamic notes. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it’s full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are still quite young, with a youthful greenish burr that isn’t distracting, but is such that it’s not a wine to drink by itself now; the finish is warm and sour berry fruit laced, and fairly long. Elegant, and eminently suited to a Porterhouse steak at present it’s also a wine that will age well for a decade or more.
88-90

Riecine

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry  fruit supported by some balsamic accents and deft underlying cedar, with some spice as well, while there is delicate sour berry fruit acidity to provide direction. On the palate it’s fresh, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by vegetal laced sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm fairly splintery burr, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish that’s fairly long. Graceful in a rather sassy key; it’s something of a tomboy, and will work quite well with succulent grilled meats along the lines of lamb chops or scamerita, a well marbled pork cut.
2 stars

Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly  intense, with a mixture of cherry fruit and cedar that initially way brings cola to mind; this is youthful wood-fruit interaction, and as the wine opens it fades to reveal spice and slightly greenish accents in addition to the fruit and cedar. On the palate it’s pleasant, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by warm slightly greenish acidity, and by cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish cedar laced finish. It’s quite young, especially on the nose, and needs time, at least a year, to come together; when it does it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will age nicely, improving considerably with time.
2 stars

Fontodi

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with  berry fruit supported by some cedar and delicate underlying spice. On the palate it’s moderately rich, with berry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky greenish cedar laced burr, and by moderately intense berry fruit acidity. It’s quite young and needs a year for the tannins to fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key. I would give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry  fruit supported by cedar and some mentholated accents, while there is also some leaf tobacco. On the palate it’s full, with elegant cherry fruit supported by savory sour cherry  acidity and by tannins that are silky at the outset, and then reveal a cedary burr that will with time fold in, and in any case leads into a clean sour cherry finish. Pleasant in an approachable fairly international key, though approachable is used advisedly; it’s quite young, and will profit from a year or two more in bottle. I would give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Poggerino

Poggerino Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, with more swishing bringing up some cedar and moderate berry fruit supported by some warm spice. On the palate it’s further along than the nose, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. The palate is fairly traditional, with the acidity that makes the wine interesting and a good companion to succulent meats, and I would give it at least a year for the nose to catch up; because of its acidity it also has nice aging potential.
2 stars

Tenuta di Liliano

Tenuta di Liliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep cherry  ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry  fruit supported by some leather and pleasant savory accents, coupled with some balsamic notes and slight animal tang. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with lively cherry  fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that has some vegetal accents, and by spicy tannins that flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with a moderately intense greenish tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and slight balsamic notes with some alcohol as well. Harmonious. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by citric-raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight greenish burr to them, flowing into a long sour cherry – forest berry fruit finish. It’s quite traditional in feel, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably, while even those who prefer the more international style will enjoy it with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Villa Calcinaia

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with leather and balsamic accents supported by some acidity and by slight cedar, while there is also some berry fruit. Harmonious. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry  fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are delicate, and while displaying a youthful burr, are overall fairly smooth, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish with a clean tannic underpinning. It’s quite approachable in a fairly traditional key, and even if you think you like smooth ripe fruit forward wines do give it a try with meats off the grill, because it will pair with them very well, and go very fast.
2 stars

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with wet leather and splice mingled with some balsamic accents and some sea salt; it’s fairly mature, and deft. On the palate it’s ripe, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and warm, and flow into a fairly sweet red berry fruit finish with a savory tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly less traditional key than the vino d’annata, and quite approachable; it will work well with roasts or stews, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 6-8 years.
2 stars

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Contessa di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar supported by some red berry fruit. Lots of oak. On the palate it’s medium bodied with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and cedar laced, flowing into a greenish finish. I’d have liked more richness to the fruit, which is overshadowed by the wood, and while the wood will fold in with time, it will continue to play a preeminent role in the wine.
1 star

Banfi

Banfi Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and a bit musty, with aromas that bring wet paper to mind, which appeared in the second bottle I asked for as well; there is also berry fruit but the other aromas mask it to a degree. On the palate it’s medium bodied with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a greenish tannic finish. It’s not as clean as I might have liked, and I also found it somewhat lacking in fruit; given my experience with Banfi’s Montalcino wines I had expected more.
1 star

Candialle

Candialle Le Misse di Candialle Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with bell pepper jammy accents that are rather pleasant, and supported by moderate berry fruit acidity. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with lively sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm berry fruit laced finish with a slightly greenish tannic underpinning. Graceful, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink very well with foods; if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Candialle Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively cherry  ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with red berry fruit and some nose tingling peppery spice, and some greenish accents with a cedar-laced somewhat chemical underpinning. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. The palate is further along than the nose, and rather brash; it’s a fairly traditional wine that will work well with quickly cooked meats off the grill or hearty pasta dishes, and will go very fast.
2 stars

Cantalici

Cantalici Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry  fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some cedar. On the palate it’s ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral cherry  acidity, and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery, with a zesty peppery burr that flows into a clean sour cherry finish. Promising in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.

Casa Sola

Presenting the New Chianti Classico Logo

Presenting the New Chianti Classico Logo

Casa Sola Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Garnet with black reflections and garnet rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with the heather of a cut field mingling with leather and some India ink bitterness; it’s fairly harmonious and very young. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry  fruit supported by dusky cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, flowing into a slightly greenish spicy finish with cedary accents. It’s middle of the road in key, but needs a few more months to come together; when it does it will be quite approachable and you will enjoy it if you like the style, which isn’t as brash as some.
2 stars

Castello della Paneretta

Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by powerful mentholated cedar and nose tingling spice; it’s quite charged, and there’s also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it’s brighter than I might have guessed from the nose, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, and lead into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. The palate is further along than the nose, and I would give the nose a year to catch up, at which point the wine will be approachable in a fairly brash key, and work well with simple grilled or roasted red meats.
2 stars

Castello di Bossi

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by warmth and graphite shavings, and moderate red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it’s ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some plum accents – it’s quite ripe – supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are quite polished, and flow into a clean slightly spicy cherry plum finish. Elegant in a decidedly international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more aggressive wines you will find things to appreciate, but it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Castello di Volpaia

Castello di Volpaia Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh, and still young enough to be somewhat disjointed, with red berry fruit supported by spice and  some vegetal accents; as it opens it comes together some, but continues to be very young. On the palate it’s full, with fairly ripe cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit derived acidity, and by tannins that are initially silky, and then reveal a youthful burr. Pleasant in a rather international key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Castello di Verrazzano

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, but not as clean as I might have liked; in addition to berry fruit there are musty aromas and some wet paper. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour cherry finish A pity about the nose – both of the bottles I tasted displayed the mustiness – because the palate is pleasant. It may be a problem related to the lot.

Fattoria Nittardi

Fattoria Nittardi Casanuova di Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Fairly deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and slight greenish accents, and pleasant underlying spice. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some bitter accents, while the tannins have a slight greenish burr and flow into a warm slightly greenish finish with peppery spice and red berry fruit. Pleasant in a fairly graceful middle of the road key and quite approachable, a wine that will go quickly at table.
2 stars

La Porta di Vertine

La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and slight balsamic accents, with some underlying spice. On the palate it’s deft, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and fairly splintery, and flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish. Lively, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or hearty first course dishes ranging from ribollita to pasta with meat sauce or lasagna. In short, versatile, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Villa di Geggiano

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit and moderate spice supported by red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively vegetal laced sour cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a savory tannic burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It’s traditional in feel and still quite young; it needs at least a year to get its bearings, and when it does will be a wine you will enjoy f you are are traditionally minded.
2 stars

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry  ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by saddle leather and red berry fruit acidity, and by some cedar. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by cherry  raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are slightly greenish, with a warm burr that flows into a fairly long tannic finish. Pleasant in a rather brash youthful key, and will drink well with roasts or stews, though it will also reward those who give it a few years to allow the elements to smooth and meld.
2 stars

Torraccia di Presura

Torraccia di Presura Il Tarocco Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and spicy, with floral accents mingling with slightly jammy red berry fruit that also has some greenish accents. On the palate it’s smooth, with ripe cherry  plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, less than I expected, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean cherry plum finish. It’s approachable in a moderately international key, and if you like the style, which is fairly soft, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Torraccia di Presura Il Tarocco Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Almost impenetrable pyrope ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by hardwood ash and some graphite shavings, with underlying spice. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly rich ripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have fairly clear cedary accents and flow into a warm slightly greenish cedar laced finish. It’s fairly international in style in both the ripenes of the fruit and the way the oak knocked back the acidity, making the wine softer and more approachable. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you are more traditionally minded it won’t work as well for you.
2 stars

Vignamaggio

Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some spice. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a warm clean fairly tart berry fruit finish. A pleasant food wine that will work very well with hearty first courses or light seconds, including grilled meats or in the summer fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Vignamaggio Castello di Monna Lisa Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some cedar, and underlying spice; it’s graceful in a young key, and clearly still developing. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit laced with some plum sweetness, and supported by moderate acidity, while the tannins are smooth and silky, and slow into a long warm berry fruit finish with a fair amount of acidic warmth that emerges as the fruit fades. Graceful, and displays considerable finesse; it’s a wine that will work very well with red meats.
2 stars

Caparsa

Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry  ruby with black reflections and cherry  rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and moderate berry fruit spice, and also slight underbrush and saddle leather. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by vegetal acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth and rather dusky with a strong youthful burr that flows into a fairly long greenish tannic finish. It’s quite approachable in a rather cheeky traditional key, and will also age nicely, I think.
2 stars

Ormanni
 
Ormanni Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by vegetal accents that bring dried artichokes to mind, and by underlying spice from the grapes,while there is also some berry fruit acidity to provide direction. On the palate it’s rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a greenish burr, and flow into a fairly long savory greenish finish. Dynamic, and will work quite well with grilled or roasted meats, and also has the capacity to age well for 5-8 years or more.
2 stars

Ormanni Borro del Diavolo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with saddle leather and spice mingling with slight greenish accents and supported by red berry fruit and berry fruit acidity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a bright greenish burr and flow into a fairly long greenish tannic finish with lasting warmth. It’s quite young in a traditional key, and needs another year at least to come together and shed some of its anger, though if you like nervous, skittish wines that have considerable power you will already like it now. It’s not something to be drunk alone, but that will contribute mightily to succulent red meats. And if you give it time, it will do interesting things.
2 stars

Ruffino

Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by some dusky cedar, and by sour berry fruit acidity. Young. On the palate it’s medium bodied with spicy slightly sour cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity that has slight mentholated accents, and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour cherry finish. Approachable, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Barrel sample
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, while there is also berry fruit acidity. On the palate it’s smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by greenish sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a fairly long warm sour berry fruit finish. From a stylistic standpoint it has a slightly old feel to it, bringing to mind wines of the 90s, and this is both a strength – people who like it know what they are getting – and a weakness, because those who eagerly seek the latest trend may dismiss it.

Castello di Selvole

Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Lively black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fresh red berry fruit that has slight jammy accents and is supported by mentholated notes and some spice; the impression is harmonious. On the palate it’s fresh, with fairly lively ripe cherry raspberry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long raspberry lased finish. Pleasant in a fresh youthful key and will work quite nicely with hearty first course dishes, simple grilled or roasted meats, and light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

San Felice

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and balsamic notes, and nose tingling acidity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a fairly long greenish tannic finish. It needs time a year at east, for everything to come together, but has nice tart fruit and a certain sassy charm, and will work well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Casaloste

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, while more swishing brings up greenish vegetal accents and spice mingled with some leather; there’s not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it’s medium bodied and rather bitter, with moderate berry fruit supported by some acidity, but not over much, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, leading into a moderately bitter finish. I’d have liked more verve than it displays.
1 star

Querciabella
 
Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and underlying spice. On the palate it’s bright, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by raspberry cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and nicely polished – headed towards silky though not quite there yet – and flow into a clean slightly greenish fruit laced finish. Elegant in an approachable international key, and though it does need a couple of years to smooth and polish, it will already drink well with foods, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; while you will find things to think about even if you are a staunch traditionalist.
2 stars

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About Cosa Bolle in Pentola

Italy boasts an astonishing number of varietals, denominations, and wines, and tremendous changes are sweeping the land. New wines are being created, new DOCs are being introduced, and the existing denominations are overhauling their regulations both to reflect the practices adopted by their member wineries and to favor improvements in quality. Even the most staid and stolid region can flower seemingly overnight, emerging with exciting new wines and wineries that require rewriting the enological maps and rethinking one's positions. And, of course, recipes too, because cuisine and wine are closely intertwined and it's difficult to imagine one without the other.
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