Garantito IGP: Tasting in Piemonte

Barolo at Night

Barolo at Night

This year Carlo, Luciano, Roberto, Stefano Pasquale and I returned to Piemonte to taste through the current releases of Barolo and Barbaresco once they had a little more time under their belts – the vintage presentation is in the spring, when they are for the most part squalling children, and yes, a few months does make a (slight) difference in many cases. Not that the wines are anywhere near ready yet, but they aren’t quite as shreaky.

Because of some personal issues I was forced to return to Florence for a day during the tasting, and therefore missed about 60 wines, the tail end of the Barbaresco tasting, which we began with, and the beginning of the Barolo wines that followed.

Given the resulting gaps in my notes it seemed to make less sense to list wineries by Comune, and I am therefore presenting all of my notes as a single block, in the order in which the wineries were presented – This means that wineries that produce Barbaresco or both Barolo and Barbaresco occur earlier, and are followed by those that make just Barolo.

The Barbareschi were for the most part 2009s. As vintages go it is a bit more skittish than some, with wines that were in many cases good, but few that really peaked. In particular, a number of the wines were quite ripe, and in some cases the tannins were a bit rougher than one might have hoped for. Why? The summer was hot and dry, and as a result those who were able to manage it obtained concentration and quality, whereas those whose vines suffered ended up with overripeness and / or greenish tannins.

The Baroli were instead for the most part 2008s, and here the picture differs: 2008 was a fine vintage, revealing considerable depth and elegance, with nicely balanced bouquets and tannins that are powerful, but without the monolithic austerity that is characteristic of 2006. In short, a vintage that will provide you with Barolo to enjoy in the relatively short term, and also with Barolo to be set aside and savored in the future.

The wines, tasted blind during the week of November 12 2012. Those that impressed all of us are listed as IGP Selections.

Boffa Carlo

Boffa Carlo Ovello Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep garnet, garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with cherry fruit supported by some tart acidity, fairly bright with some greenish accents and some wet bark as well. On the palate it’s tart, and rather dusky, with bitter greenish accents and moderate fruit, while the tannins are greenish and lay a dusty trail over the tongue, flowing into a fairly tart savory finish.
1 star

Boffa Carlo Barbaresco DOCG 2009
deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with quite a bit of dusty cedar that covers most everything else. On the palate it’s pleasant, with nice fruit supported by sour cherry accents and tannins that have a dusty bitter burr and flow into clean rather bitter finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and I’d give it time to get together.
2 stars

Boffa Carlo Paje Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with delicate floral accents and violets mingled with rosa canina and some berry fruit, nice depth and harmony. On the palate it’s pleasant, with nice cherry fruit supported by bright mineral berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth though they do have a slight burr that provides life and direction. Pleasant and will also age nicely
2 stars

Prunotto

Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather animal, with sour cherry fruit supported by lathered horse and some savory accents, nice balance. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. Fairly traditional in key.
2 stars

Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with leather and some leaf tobacco mingled with some spice. On the palate it’s ample with moderate acidity but not as much fruit as I might have hoped; it revolves primarily around acidity.
1 star

Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it’s one of the paler wines of the day. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and some balsamic notes mingled with leather and leaf tobacco, and supported by some pungency as well. A lot going on in a finesse laced key; quite fresh too. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, flowing into a long cherry finish supported by pleasant acidity. A fresh wine, with considerable aging potential. If you’re traditionally minded it will impress you.
88-90

Marchesi di Gresy

Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco 2009  
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina and cherry fruit supported by slight greenish acidity; it’s pleasantly harmonious. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity and tannins that are young and have a splintery burr, flowing into a long rather bitter tart finish. Pleasant in a young zesty fairly traditional key, with nice aging potential. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Giorgio Pelissero

Giorgio Pelissero Tulin Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, swishing brings up some bitter cedar and slight sweetish accents, more swishing some spice and some pungency. On the palate it’s ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by cedary minerality and some spice, and by moderate mineral more than fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and quite smooth with some cedar to them. I’d have liked a little more richness of fruit, but it’s pleasant in a more brooding mineral underbrush key. Shadowy.
2 stars

Giorgio Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with cherry fruit and some rosa canina mingled with some spice and some leafy underbrush as it opens. On the palate it’s fresh, with fairly bright greenish mineral laced underbrush and bitterness mingled with slight fruit and savory accents; it’s a rather brooding wine but pleasant in the context of the style, and will also age nicely.
2 stars

Francone

Vineyards in Langa

Vineyards in Langa

Francone I Patriarchi Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with delicate spice and some underbrush, mingled with greenish accents and some cedar, slight berry fruit as well. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with moderate fruit and more minrality, and tannins that are warm and splintery. And flow into a splintery rather bitter finish. I found it oddly lacking in fruit; minerality and tannins carry the show.
1 star

Francone Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some spice mingled with greenish floral accents and spice. A bit disjointed. On the palate it’s ample and rather greenish, with some cherry fruit supported by unusual greenish notes that flow into a rather vegetal finish. I’d have liked more tightness and verve than I found; it’s a bit settled.
1 star

Antichi Poderi Dei Gallina

Antichi Poderi Dei Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice, and slight underbrush, also some floral accents, hints rosa canina and some greenish notes. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite young, and very pleasant to drink, quite enjoyable and a wine that will age nicely for many years.
88-90

Marchesi di Barolo

Marchesi di Barolo Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and spicy, with some not quite candied accents and deft mentholated notes; there are also hints chocolate that bring an After Eight mint to mind. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with bitter minerality and moderate fruit supported by savory accents and tannins that are warm and rather splintery and flow into a clean tannic finish. It’s a bit more brooding, and more mineral than fruit, but pleasant to drink.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and ripe berry fruit, a mix of prunes and currants. On the palate it’s ample and soft on the outset, though the tannins, coupled with mineral acidity, step in and lay a veneer over the palate. I found the structure to be larger than the fruit that fills it.
1 star

Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is dusky, with considerable graphite shaving bitterness but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it’s ample and fairly soft, with prune cherry fruit supported by warmth and by some berry fruit acidity, which flow into a soft cherry prune finish with lasting warmth. It’s big and soft, but does have the acidity necessary to have direction.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Coste di Rose Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with purple rim; it’s poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some ripe fruit, prune plum more than red fruit, and slight spice. It’s still coming together. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and sweet tannins that flow into an ample fairly soft finish; it’s a big soft wine but well made, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. If you prefer wines that are tighter it won’t work for you.
2 stars

Azienda Cà du Rabajà

Azienda Cà du Rabajà Poderi Lorenzo Alutto Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some sweetish accents and ripe fruit with some mentholated notes as well. On the palate it’s a bit disjointed and rather short, with moderate sour fruit that quickly gives way to sour berry fruit acidity that is left carrying with the tannins, which are fairly smooth. Pity the fruit pulls in as it does.
1 star

Anzienda Cà du Rabajà di Lorenzo Alutto Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with delicate berry fruit and some alcohol, also pleasant spice and good harmony. On the palate it’s pleasant, with nice sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and nice aging capacity.
88-90

Rizzi

Rizzi Pajore Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite different with respect to the others, with some eucalyptus and spice mingled with lacquer; there’s not much fruit to it. On the palate it’s disjointed and rather angry, fellow tasters say raw, with tannins that are pungent and quite dry, and tart minerality, while the dryness of the tannins overshadows and masks the fruit. An angry young man, and they sometimes work out, but others do not. Here it’s soon to say.

Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is off, smells of wet rags at first sniff, and then opens with some berry fruit and spice and tea as the reduction blows off. On the palate it’s ample and smooth, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by some spice and quite ripe, will drink well with foods and the palate is more interesting than the nose, which needs time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Fontanabianca

Fontanabianca Bordini Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and some cedar, also minerality and some leafy notes. On the palate it’s moderately rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by spicy savory accents and a degree of bitterness too, and flows into a savory rather pungent finish. Enjoyable.
2 stars

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with some spicy notes and ripe fruit. Harmonious. Some floral accents, rosa canina and slight resin. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by bitter savory notes and tannins that have a warm splintery burr, flow into a fairly long bright bitter finish.
2 stars

Ceretto

Ceretto Bricco Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky with some leather and some dusty notes, a fellow taster says burnt rubber. The palate reflects the nose, with moderate fruit overshadowed by oak and by some smoky notes, and flows into a rather bitter oaky finish.
1 star

Ceretto Asij Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is behind, with some large wood and slight spice supporting moderate fruit, but it’s still developing. On the palate it’s pleasant, with considerable ripe cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and fairly smooth tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. The palate is better than the nose, and if the nose catches up, and I think it will, it will be nice. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Ceretto Bernardot Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic, with barnyard tang and spicy notes mingled with hardwood ash and a savory underpinning; moderate fruit as well and a degree of sweetness to them. On the palate it’s smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory tannic finish. It’s quite ready, and one of the readiest wines tasted. It’s fairly straight forward, and direct.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Prapò Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense with quite a bit of cedar and some sacristy, gives an impression of dryness, and there’s not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with moderate fruit and tannins that are quite dry, while there isn’t much in the way of acidity to hold it up.
1 star

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with licorice root and quinine mingled with some cedar as well. Needs time to develop. On the palate it’s pleasant, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth with a slight savory burr, and flow into a clean bright plum finish. Pleasant in a fairly ripe key, and will age nicely. Worth seeking out.
2 stars.

The Passage of Time

The Passage of Time

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Bricco Rocche Barolo DOCG 2009
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite vegetal, with greenish ascents and spice that bring heather of a cut field to mind mingled with some red berry fruit and floral notes. On the palate it’s bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant and displays considerable potential. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Ceretto Zonchera Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some floral accents, and quite a bit of cedar with some greenish notes. On the palate it’s pleasant in an up front key, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish cedar laced tannins, and by moderate acidity. It’s fairly direct, but pleasant, and will drink nicely with time, though it needs a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Cascina delle Rose

Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black cherry rim and black reflections. The bouquet is mentholated with ripe candied fruit that’s between red and prune. Overripe, and one of the few. On the palate it’s ample with ripe fruit supported by some savory accents and by tannins that are ample and slightly splintery, and flow into a fairly long savory finish.
2 stars

Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some fairly intense cedar that is young, overshadows. On the palate it’s pleasant, with fairly bright savory cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and if the nose catches up with the palate will be nice. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Molino 

Azienda Agricola Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections; darker than most.  Everyone else smells chrysanthemums; some spice and considerable ripe fruit, a mix of berry and prune plum and some spicy oak as well. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice and some savory accents, and it’s fairly atypical, and also going in several directions.
1 star

Bava

Bava Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly animal, with leather and animal tang, and some greenish accents as well, mingled with spice. On the palate it’s bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by mineral laced acidity and by tannins that are rather bitter. Pleasant, in a decidedly traditional key and if you like the style has nice aging potential.
2 stars

Bava Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; looks older. The nose is rather rustic, and while others mutter about minestrone I find considerable balsamic accents and some barnyard tang, mingled with fairly ripe berry fruit. Particular. On the palate it’s ample and smooth, with moderate plum fruit supported by tannins that have a leathery feel to them, and moderate rather mineral acidity. I’d have liked greater richness to palate and fruit.
1 star

Prinsi

Prinsi Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is somewhat closed, though mentholated herbal notes emerge supported by savory spice and some greenish accents. On the palate it’s pleasant, with sour cherry plum fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and tannins that are quite smooth, and there’s quite a bit of alcohol; it’s a bit disjointed and going in several directions at present. Hasn’t decided what it wants to be as a grownup, and to give it a score now doesn’t seem right..

Michele Chiarlo

Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with shellac and moderate ripe fruit, not really fresh, and this is perhaps heat; there’s some sweetness to it too. On the palate it’s savory, with cherry fruit supported by spice and tannins that are rather splintery. And flow into a clean savory finish.
1 star

Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some spice also some greenish accents On the palate it’s ample, with fairly mineral berry fruit supported by some spice, and tannins that have a warm savory burr. I’d have liked more depth to it.
1 star

Bersano

Bersano Mantico Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, with some sour berry fruit and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it’s savory with moderate berry fruit supported by savory notes and fairly dry tannins that flow into a bitter finish. It’s not as clean as I might have hoped, and I’d have liked more fruit.
1 star

Bersano Nirvasco Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and decidedly greenish, with spice and some berry fruit accents. But not many. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate fruit that’s fairly acidic; and tannins that are ample and rather blocky, and flow into warm sour finish. It’s a bit behind, and could do with more fruit, but has pleasant acidity.
2 stars

Cantina del Nebbiolo

Cantina del Nebbiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a mixture of sawdust and bitter almonds supported by dusky notes; it’s not as clean as it might be. The palate reflects the nose, with greenish dried accents and moderate fruit.
1 star

La Contea

La Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is unusual, with a great deal of oak and some chemical accents that bring furniture polish to mind. On the palate it’s oaky, with bitterness that has an oaky cast overshadowing most everything.
1 star

Negro Angelo

Negro Angelo e Figli Cascinotta Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is intense and unusual, with sweaty blonde accents, and spice mingled with some vegetal accents too, celery perhaps. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather flighty and flow into a savory sour berry fruit finish. It’s lacking in depth and richness. And a bit atypical with respect to what I think of as Barbaresco.
1 star

Giacosa Fratelli

Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Vigna Gianmatè Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe prune cherry fruit supported by some chemical notes. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have dusky smoky accents and flow into a sour finish. Lacking in verve and depth.
1 star

Giacosa Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal notes and some cedar more than fruit; there’s also some chemical accents. On the palate it’s ample, but lacking in fruit; it’s more dusky than fruit driven, with tannins that are savory and mineral, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It’s a little more shadowy than I might have liked.
1 star

Giacosa Fratelli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit musty, with some cedar and greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather savory, with moderate fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, flowing into a fairly bitter finish. I’d have liked greater richness of fruit, which is instead giving way to the tannins for the direction of the wine.
1 star

Moccagatta

Moccagatta Cole Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with butternut squash rind that is a mix of fruit and terrific wood. With some shellac; it’s atypical and some of my fellow tasters mutter about Valpolicella. On the palate it’s full, with moderate prune fruit and a fair amount of residual sugar supported by tannins that are rather mineral, and flow into a bitter finish with some sweet accents. Again, it seems in some ways to be an Amarone or something from that area.
1 star

Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and shellac mingled with chemical accents, and not much fruit. On the palate it’s a little better, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by moderate acidity. Better on the palate than the nose, but flags.
1 star

Moccagatta Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections. the nose is chemical, bringing to mind the finger paints I used as a child. On the palate it’s bright, with cherry fruit supported by mineral notes and spice, but it0’s more spice and chemical than fruit.
1 star

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some ripe berry fruit supported by cedar and slight shellac, with some chemical notes. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean slightly savory finish with lasting sour tannic underpinning. The palate is more interesting than the nose.
2 stars

Castello di Verduno

Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Lively cherry ruby, looks a little younger than some. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and hints of strawberry blossoms with slight menthol, and underlying ripe fruit. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and tannins that are slightly greenish and have a warm burr, flowing into a fairly long finish. It’s pleasant in a tart rather ruffiano — an Italian term that means ingratiating — key and will work nicely at the table; if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Cascina Bruciata

Cascina Bruciata Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and some cedar, not much in the way of fruit however. On the palate it’s ample and rather bitter, with moderate fruit supported by bitter accents and some tannins, and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth that leaves the palate dry.
1 star

Montaribaldi

Montaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep purple ruby; a different hue than most. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some prune fruit. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with ripe prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long bitter finish that has some graphite shaving overtones. If you like big ripe wines you will enjoy it, but less if you prefer tighter wines.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather musty, with spice and cedar as the must blows off. On the palate it’s savory, with moderate fruit and some spice, but not as rich as I might have liked; the finish is splintery with tannins taking over from everything else.
1 star

Ugo Lequio

Ugo Lequio Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with powerful savory notes and odd acidity but not much in the way of fruit; it flows into a fairly tart finish. The acidity is odd and rather disjointed with respect to the rest of the wine; in particular the tannins are smoother than the acidity lead one to expect.
1 star

Cantine San Silvestro

Cantine San Silvestro Magno Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite ripe, with mentholated slightly balsamic prune fruit supported by some greenish accents and spice with some hardwood ash and slight lathered horse; a fellow taster says cooked greens. On the palate it’s ripe with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are rather splintery and by greenish acidity that flows into a greenish sour berry fruit finish. The nose gives an impression of softness the palate doesn’t display; though there is a greenish accent to it, and a degree of oakiness. It’s going in several directions at once.
1 star

San Silvestro Patres Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is moderately intense, with burnt cork, which is wood toast, and and spice, which cover most all. On the palate it’s better, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that flow into a clean rather savory finish. The palate is better than the nose, and I’d give it a year at least to come together. It has some potential, but the nose penalizes it at present.
2 stars

Cortese Giuseppe

Cortese Giuseppe Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather green, with considerable chemical influence, some shellac and other things. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by acidity and the fruit is light enough that the acidity emerges more strongly than it should, while the tannins are warm and splintery. It’s the sort of wine that will work well with fatty foods that beg a tart wine to clear the palate between bites, but one expects more from Barbaresco.
1 star

Azienda Socré

Azienda Socré Rongaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some of the finger paints I used as a child mixed with lactic accents and some spice, and savory notes; in the battery it stands out and is more harmonious and more interesting. On the palate it’s full with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and some spice, and by tannins that are smooth and rather bitter. It’s a step up here too, and more interesting, though I’d have liked smoother tannins coupled with greater richness of fruit — it revolves more around minerality — and a little less bitterness.
2 stars

Azienda Socré Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and some spice, with some greenish accents. On the palate it’s ample, and fairly direct, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a clean fresh finish. It’s pleasant in a fairly up front key, and will drink nicely with foods. More approachable.
2 stars

Pasquale Pelissero

Pasquale Pelissero Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly dry with cedar and spice mingled with some alcohol, and a minimum but not much more fruit. A fair amount of alcohol however. On the palate it’s savory, with quite a bit of alcohol that provides warmth and dryness, but not much in the way of fruit, while the acidity is mineral and the tannins are splintery.
1 star

Marco e Vittorio Adriano

Marco e Vittorio Adriano Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2009
deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with strawberry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and some spice, also slight mentholated accents. Gives an impression of tartness. On the palate it’s bright, with savory cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry fruit whose acidity brings stems to mind, and flows into a sour rather splintery finish. Tart, and quite aggressive, and is something to consider only if you like the style.
2 stars

Marco e Vittorio Adriano Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather rustic, with savory notes and spice mingled with some animal tang and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s quite tart, with very splintery tannins that curl the tongue — they bring to mind raspi, stems, which were once left in the wine but no longer are, and it flows into a fairly quick finish, folding in on itself. Makes the teeth squeak.
1 star

Azienda Taliano Michele

Azienda Taliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep blackish purple, different from most. The bouquet is unusual, with berry fruit and floral notes that bring to mind an Aleatico. Quite unusual. On the palate it’s like the nose, with spicy mentholated accents added. Strange, and completely atypical for Barbaresco.
1 star

Bruno Rocca

The wall at Marchesi di Barolo

The wall at Marchesi di Barolo

Bruno Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense with alcohol and cedar mingled with chemical accents and slight fruit. On the palate it’s savory with tannins that are bitter and quite splintery, and flow into a clean bitter finish.
1 star

Bruno Rocca Coparossa Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mineral motes mingled with spice and some greenish accents, supported by slight leafy underbrush; there’s not much fruit but it displays nice balance. On the palate it’s deft, with fairly intense mineral acidity and tannins that are rather bitter and flow into a clean bitter finish. Dry, but a pleasant expression revolving around minerality more than fruit.
2 stars

Bruno Rocca Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2009
deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and slight hardwood ash mingled with spice. On the palate it’s bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that is supported by greenish sour berry fruit acidity and by splintery tannins, while slight hints of sweetness emerge subsequently. It’s splintery, with quite a bit of alcohol, and is a bit disjointed.
1 star

Fratelli Grasso

Fratelli Grasso Vallegrande Barbaresco 2009
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and some berry fruit supported by slight hints of carbonic maceration. On the palate it’s sour, with bright cherry accents and tannins that are greenish and quite glancing, with tongue-tingling peppery accents. Quite tannic and rather disjointed.
1 star

Bel Colle
 
Bel Colle Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and rather greenish with some spicy notes, and not much fruit. On the palate it’s bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are dry and rather splintery, and flow into a savory tannic finish.
1 star

Battaglio

Battaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with slight balsamic accents and some petroleum overtones. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with savory notes mingled with petroleum accents that flow into the finish; a fellow taster also finds quinine and there’s a fair amount of savory bitterness too. While both petroleum and quinine can be present in Barbaresco, they shouldn’t stand out as much as they do here.
1 star

Ceste

Ceste Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Slightly cloudy almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with spicy acidity and some tannic accents. On the palate it’s savory, with oddly sweet sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are bright and rather glancing, and flow into a sour berry fruit finish.
1 star

Armando Piazzo

Armando Piazzo Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some spice and slight cedar mingled with spice and slight animal tang, lathered horse, and some greenish accents. On the palate it’s pleasant, with bright savory cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and tannins that have a slight splintery burr and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with succulent meats; I would give the nose a year to catch up with the palate.
2 stars

Fratelli Barale

Fratelli Barale Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep purple garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is in an odd phase, with aromas of shellac and wet paper. On the palate it’s more interesting, with ripe berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fresh bright sour cherry finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and I would give it a year to come together.
2 stars

Terre da Vino

Terra da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with greenish accents and some spice, mingled with cedar and some graphite shavings. On the palate it’s bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by spice and savory notes that flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It’s more interesting on palate than nose, though I’d have liked a little more richness.
2 stars

Terre da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with dusky cedar and shadowy accents, and as it opens slight wet stable straw and red berry fruit. On the palate it’s fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright cherry finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and rather astringent now; it needs time to come together and develop.
2 stars

Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some spice mingled with slight berry fruit, and moderate acidity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively fresh sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, with a greenish overly to them, and flow into a fairly long bright sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though more in a prospective of the future than today. Needs 3-5 years.
2 stars

Produttori del Barbaresco

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly cedary, with greenish accents  and a chemical overlay, shellac perhaps. Others say wax. On the palate it’s moderately intense with sour cherry fruit supported by sour acidity that dries the tongue.
1 star

Giribaldi Mario

Giribaldi Mario Gaia Principe Barbaresco DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina and some leaf tobacco supported by moderate acidity and cherry plum fruit. Fairly traditional. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with savory mineral laced berry fruit supported by wet leaves and underbrush, and by tannins that are warm and have a savory slightly bitter burr, flow into a clean mineral finish. Dusky and shadowy, and pleasant in a traditional key.
88-90

Giribaldi Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with floral notes and some spice. On the palate it’s medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by tannins that have greenish accents and a savory underpinning, and flow into a clean savory finish. It’s still coming together, and needs another year or two, though there is potential.
2 stars

Giribaldi Vigna Ravera Barolo DOCG 2009
Black garnet with black reflections and orange garnet rim. The bouquet is muted, with some greenish notes and hints of hot iron. On the palate it’s ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth and rather ample. I found it laxer than I might have liked, and while there is acidity there isn’t the tannic tightness to bring it all together.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo

Aurelio Settimo Rocche dell’Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine. The bouquet is intense, with rosa canina and some spice mingled with slight leaf tobacco and some red berry fruit; nice balance and fairly harmonious. Developing too. On the palate it’s ample and mineral, with moderate fruit supported by savory leaf tobacco laced minerality, while the tannins are ample and fairly smooth, flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. I’d have liked a little more oomph.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet — almost almandine — with black reflections and decidedly almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with rosa canina and spice mingled with some berry fruit and some chemical notes, aldehydes. Young. On the palate it’s a bit riper than I expected, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes and sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are ample and splintery – youth – and flow into a fairly sweet plum cherry finish. It’s a little softer than I expected from the nose, and riper too, and as such it’s a more particular wine than some, one you will like or not. I would in any case give it a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Fontanafredda

Fontanafredda Mirafiore Piagallo Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant floral notes and delicate red berry fruit supported by some savory spice. Quite a bit to think about. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather splintery, and flow into a clean bright savory finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key and will drink nicely with red meats of all sorts.
2 stars

Manzone Giovanni

Manzone Giovanni Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it’s barely cloudy. The bouquet is moderately intense with a fair amount of cedar and some prune plum fruit with underlying gum Arabic. On the palate it’s ample and rather bitter with moderately intense sour prune accents, supported by savory minerality more than fruit acidity, and it flows into a rather bitter finish with a fair amount of tannic underbrush. I’d have liked more verve and acidity, and less brooding shadowy accents.
1 star

Manzone Giovanni Bricat Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with quite a bit of oak and some shellac, also some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it’s soft, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by oaky bitterness, and supported by tannins that have a considerable greenish burr that’s almost peppery. An angry youngster, and I found it overly oaked for the amount of fruit and acidity.
1 star

Manzone Giovanni Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of oak and some bitter accents, and some shellac; there’s not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with moderate fruit and a rather light feel to it, almost dilute, with the fruit disconnecting somewhat from the tannins, and as the fruit fades the tannins, with savory minerality carry into the finish. It’s a brooding wine, and needs time to come together. Scoring it now might not do it justice.

Massolino

Massolino Margheria Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with some leaf tobacco and saddle leather mingled with rosa canina and delicate spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it’s bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by dusky sour cherry acidity and by smooth slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with sour cherry acidity and a bright tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars

Massolino Parafada Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, swishing brings up some spice and slight cedar. Still developing. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with moderate cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. It’s fairly soft, and developing, may do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Massolino Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy cedar and some plum fruit; wood predominates in this phase. On the palate it’s ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean savory finish with sour berry fruit tannic underpinning. The palate is more interesting than the nose, with acidity that balances the softness of the tannins, and it will be nice in 5-6 years.
2 stars

Massolino Parussi Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with leaf tobacco and rosa canina mingled with some saddle leather and moderate berry fruit, while there is also some spice, and there are hints of wet tea leaves too. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and soft, and also tightly woven, with a slight peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long rather tannic finish.
2 stars

Gianfranco Alessandria

Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep slightly dusky almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense with quite a bit of cedar supported by some berry fruit and hints of gum Arabic, also some wet tea leaves and slight shellac. Quite a bit of wood present. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins that are ample and smooth, though they do display a greenish burr and flow into a rather soft cedar laced finish.
2 stars

Gianfranco Alessandria San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with smoky notes that bring smoked meats overtones mind — something from the toast of the barrels — and some spice as well. On the palate it’s ample, with soft tannins and fairly sweet cherry prune fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity; it’s a little lacking in verve and more push to the fruit would have been nice.
2 stars

Negretti

Negretti Bricco Ambrogio Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and spicy, with moderately intense chemical accents, and some spice. On the palate it’s ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by some balsamic accents and savory minerality, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It’s quite ripe, and still coming together, and if you like the style, which is riper and soft, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Negretti Mirau Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with floral notes, violets in particular, mingled with prun plum fruit and a certain sweetness. On the palate it’s ample and quite ripe, with plum prune fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a cedar laced finish in which oaky bitterness gradually emerges. It’s a big soft wine, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more verve you won’t.
2 stars

Negretti Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and slightly balsamic, with some raw beef as well mingled with leather and leaf tobacco, with underlying floral notes. A fair amount going on and still coming together. On the palate it’s full, and smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, with a slight blockiness that is youth, and flow into a clean fairly bright savory tannic finish. Pleasant, and with considerable finesse though it does need 3-5 years to come into its own.
2 stars

Cavallotto

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine. The bouquet is more mature than one might expect, with an initial rush of cold coffee, with some underlying spice and a fair amount of underbrush. Unusual in a young wine. On the palate it’s moderately intense, with cherry plum fruit shot though with the bitter coffee that comes out in the nose. I found it to be a bit disjointed and old before its time.
1 star

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with powerful burnt grilled pepper accents that are a little unusual (for Nebbiolo from the Langhe; this sort of aroma is more common in northern Piemontese Nebbiolo), and some spice. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with lively sour berry fruit that again has some burn pepper overtones, and flows into a clean rather savory finish with bright fruit underpinning and tannins that have a slight burr. It’s a bit atypical for Barolo, but pleasant in a rather zesty key, and if you’re not a staunch traditionalist it will work well with red meats.
2 stars

Cavallotto Vignolo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with with some burnt cork that is from oak, and some fruit, though it’s mostly revolving around the burnt accents. On the palate it’s ample, and rather bitter, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright sour berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi

Bruna Grimaldi Camilla Barolo DOCG 2009
Slightly paler almandine garnet than some, with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still coming together, with some medicinal balsamic accents at present, and moderate spice, but not much fruit as of yet. It’s more brooding, working towards minerality. On the palate it’s ample, and fairly mineral, with some berry fruit but more leafy underbrush and minerality that are supported by ample tightly woven tannins with a splintery burr that carries into the finish.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and fairly chemical, with some spice, and as the chemical notes blow off, berry fruit that has a certain candied sweetness to it, with nutmeg and cinnamon spice. On the palate it’s ample and fairly sweet, with moderately bright cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a vanilla laced bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long finish. It’s still coming together, and disjointed at present.

Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambrogio Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim; looks a little older than the others. The bouquet is savory, with some spice and leaf tobacco, and also some balsamic accents. On the palate it’s ample and fairly sweet, with moderate cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some spice, which flow into a clean savory finish. It’s quite young, and still rather disjointed.
2 stars

Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Vigna Regnola Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
An IGP Selection
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and pleasant greenish vegetal accents. Deft. On the palate it’s full, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and smooth, flowing into a clean tannic finish. Quick to write, but elegant and will age very well too.
88-90

Elvio Cogno

Cogno Ravera Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and slightly orangeish rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent berry fruit and cut flowers, supported by some spice and berry fruit and a fair amount of tobacco. On the palate it’s ample, and fairly soft, with moderate fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are dry and rather savory, and flow into a clean savory finish. It’s quite fresh, and pleasant to drink; it’s also still coming together but has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo DOCG 2007
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some cedar and dusky accents. On the palate it’s ample with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity. It-s still coming together, and in flux.

Ascheri

Ancient Casks Still in Use

Ancient Casks Still in Use

Ascheri Sorano Coste e Bricco Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep slightly cloudy almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by slight sour berry fruit acidity and some spice with some floral accents and balsamic hints too; it’s in mid stride. On the palate it’s pleasant, with ample cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; the tannins are still splintery and need another year at least to come together and fold in.
2 stars

Ascheri Sorano Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasing floral accents supported by some berry fruit and some greenish vegetal accents. A fair amount going on and quite young. On the palate it’s ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and considerable warmth, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a fairly long warm tart finish. Nice interplay of fruit and acidity, and nice potential for the future.
2 stars

Ascheri Pisapola Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some cedar and floral accents mingled with rosa canina and some spice, also some balsamic notes. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, with sour prune plum fruit supported by greenish tannins that have a slight bitter underpinning. It’s difficult to pin down, but I’d have liked more verve.
1 star

Cordero di Montezemolo

Cordero di Montezemolo Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and unsettling with powerful shellac and spice, from wood, with some gum Arabic as well. It’s like sniffing liquid cement. The palate is dusky, with prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar laced burr. If the nose develops it will be pleasant in a ripe soft key, but it needs time, at least a couple of years.

Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is quite young, and a bit disjointed, with oak and wood that have yet to come together yet. On the palate it’s impressive, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a long clean cherry finish with some barrel sample bitterness that provides direction. It’s a work in progress, but very fine and will be spectacular in 3-5 years, and age well for a great many more years. Most impressive, but do give it time, because it needs it.
90

Poderi Einaudi

Poderi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some spice and alcohol do emerge. On the palate it’s ample, but lacking in fruit.
1 star

Poderi Einaudi Terlo Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense,with ith floral accents and some strawberry acidity supported by some fairly ripe berry fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by warm savory acdity and tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a clean savory burr. I’d have liked a little more depth to it.
1 star

Cascina Ballarin

Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite rustic, with an abundance of savory barnyard tang. A bit extreme. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity that displays the tang to a lesser degree, and slows into a fairly long tart finish. It’s rustic, and if you like the style you will like it. If you don’t it will be more than you can take.
1 star

Livia Fontana

Livia Fontana Bussia Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with penetrating acidity. Odd. On the palate it’s ample and rather sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory acidity. A bit disjointed, and going in several directions.

Livia Fontana Villero Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with quite a bit of cedar and some balsamic accents, also some spice and some beeswax with a slight greenish underpinning. On the palate it’s sweeter than expected, with ample plum fruit supported by some plum acidity and by tannins that are smooth and soft. It’s a bit overripe, and if you like the style you’ll like it, but you have to like big ripe wines.
2 stars

Livia Fontana Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant cherry plum fruit supported by spice and some greenish accents. Fewsh and quite young. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and savory, and flow into a  clean bright sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though young, and needs a few more years to come together.
2 stars

Raineri

Raineri Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather animal, with wet stable straw and some underlying bitterness, and as it opens some cedar. On the palate it’s more interesting, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by some plum acidity, and by tannins that are splintery.
1 star

Raineri Monserra Barolo DOCG 2009
deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory berry fruit supported by spice and some greenish accents. Pleasant. On the palate it’s fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by savory spice and bright berry fruit acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly fresh finish.
2 stars

Mauro Sebaste

Mauro Sebaste Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2009
Decidedly almandine; looks older than it is. The bouquet is moderately intense, with floral accents and some leather mingled with deft truffle and some hints of sweetness. Pleasant in a rather tertiary key. On the palate it’s pleasant in a traditional key, with leathery berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr. Pleasant, but still coming together, with nice freshness on the palate.
2 stars

Mauro Sebaste Prapò Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up plum cherry fruit with some sweetness and savory spice as well, also slight cedar. =On the palate it’s full, and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity mineral more than fruit, and by tannins that are ample and splintery.
2 stars

Le Strette

Le Strette Bergera Pezzole Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite ripe, with plum fruit supported by spice and moderate acidity. On the palate it’s ample and rather sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by bitter mineral acidity and by tannins that have a cedary bitter burr and flow into a bitter finish. It’s rather big, and rather soft, and I’d have liked more richness to the fruit.
1 star

Le Strette Bergeisa Barolo DOCG 2009
An IGP Selection
Deep pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some spice, and also pleasant prune plum fruit. On the palate it’s ample, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, and large as well. It’s a big wine that displays grace and elegance, and it has nice potential as well.
2 stars

Franco Conterno

Conterno Franco Cascina Sciulun Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim; it’s slightly lighter than the others. The bouquet is moderately cedar laced, though largely closed. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with moderately intense fruit that’s fairly ripe, flowing into a clean rather savory finish.
2 stars

Conterno Franco Pugniane Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and deft berry fruit acidity with some underlying cedar as well. On the palate it’s ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by greenish acidity and pleasant slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish finish. Quite young but promises nicely in a fairly ripe key, and will age well too I think.
2 stars

Franco Conterno Riserva Bussia Vigna Munnie Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with rosa canina mingled with berry fruit and some cedar, and slight shellac as well. On the palate it’s ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. I’d have liked a little more verve to the acidity, which is present but isn’t as bright as I’d have liked.
2 stars

Franco Conterno Riserva Sette Anni Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it’s ample and rather sweet, unusually so for a Barolo, with balsamic berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and sweetness, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a rather sweet balsamic berry fruit finish. It’s a bit particular, and suggests terrific ripeness on the part of the grapes. It will however drink nicely with succulent stews, and even spicier fare such as goulash.
2 stars

Deltetto

Deltetto Sistaglia Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with some cedar and slight banana skin, mingled with greenish accents that mingle with berry fruit.. It’s oddly young and disjointed. On the palate it’s full and rather soft, with cherry 0plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather glancing. Lacks verve.
1 star

Simone Scaletta

Simone Scaletta Chirlette Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is lactic, with milk — a fellow taster says toffee — and not much else. On the palate it’s ample and rather savory, with some sour berry fruit and splintery tannins.
1 star

Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mantoetto

Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone Mantoetto Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rosa canina and spice mingled with pleasant flora accents and some red berry fruit. Quite young, but pleasingly harmonious. On the palate it’s full, with bright red cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly rich, with a slight splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long savory burr. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Palladino

Palladino Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a certain floral pungency that impresses me more than my fellow tasters; there are also greenish accents and hints of Marseilles soap. On the palate it’s pleasant, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity with some greenish accents, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight cedary leathery underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink well for many years.
2 stars

Sandrone

Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2009
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is somewhat animal, with sweat and some greenish notes, and some balsamic notes as well. On the palate it’s ample and rather smooth, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are quite splintery, and flow into a warm savory splintery finish. It needs at least a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Porro Guido

Porro Guido Vigna Santa Caterina Barolo DOCG 2009
Almandine with garnet reflections and almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents that bring to mind mentholated cough drops, and floral accents that bring a Moscato di Scanzo to mind. Quite unusual for a Barolo. On the palate it’s ample and fairly sweet, with prune cherry fruit supported by moderate rather mineral acidity and by tannins that are glancing and rather bitter, and flow into a savory tannic finish. It’s a bit unusual, and a wine you will like or not. No quarter.
1 star

Guido Porro Vigna Lazairasco Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep slightly cloudy garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chemical notes and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it’s riper than the nose suggests, with prune fruit that’s fairly sweet supported by prune mineral acidity and by slight greenish accents, while the tannins are clean and rather greenish, flowing into a greenish savory finish.
1 star

Bolmida Silvano

Bolmida Silvano Vigna dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy with greenish accents and some spice, and also some balsamic notes with hints of animal tang. Unusual, and a bit rustic. On the palate it’s ample and rather ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are rather ample and flow into a rather splintery finish. It’s a bit disjointed and may or may not come together.
1 star

Silvano Bolmida Bussia Barolo DOCG 2009
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is unusual, with floral accents and spice that bring Ruché to mind. Atypical for a Nebbiolo, but if you like this sort of floral nose you will enjoy it. On the palate it’s pleasant, with floral laced spicy berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that flow into a clean finish. It’s atypical on the palate too, with spicy notes that bring Ruché to mind, and if one were to ask for a classic Nebbiolo this isn’t it. But it does display pleasing grace and elegance, and if you’re adventuresome you will likely like it.
2 stars

Cascina Amalia

Cascina Amalia Barolo DOCG 2009
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite young, with considerable oak that emerges on the nose, overshadowing the fruit. On the palate it’s ample and smooth, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are ample and cedar laced and by acidity that’s fairly mineral, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish. It’s ample and fairly direct in a modern key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though it needs another year to come together.
2 stars

Sobrero

Sobrero Ciabot Tanazio Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some heather. Youthful intensity. On the palate it’s bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity mingled with minerality and by tannins that have an ample splintery burr and flow into a fairly bitter finish. It’s quite young and still coming together in a fairly boisterous middle of the road key.
2 stars

Brezza

Brezza Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with delicate floral accents — a fellow taster says lavender — supported by some sweetness and slight strawberry acidity, with some rose petal jam On the palate it’s full, with fairly bright slightly bitter cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky slightly bitter graphite shavings burr, and flow into a fairly long rather mineral bitter finish.
2 stars

After a day of tasting wine... beer

After a day of tasting wine… beer

Brezza Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Moderately pale garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some leather and rosa canina emerge, mingled with slight cedary accents. On the palate it’s a little less rich than I might have liked, with minerality more than fruit supported by sour mineral accents and fairly astringent tannins that flow into a dusky finish. It’s more tertiary than one might expect a young wine to be, but pleasant to drink and if you like the style you will enjoy it. Austere. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Brezza Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish savory accents and some spice, with slight squash rind as well. It’s very young and developing. On the palate it’s savory, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and splintery; and flow into a savory finish with splintery tannic underpinning. Quite young in a fairly direct key, and a more up front interpretation of Barolo.
2 stars

Manzone Paolo

Manzone Paolo Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. Darker than some. The bouquet is intense, with floral accents mingled with some cedar and some tart accents as well, not quite citrus but in that direction, and greenish accents too. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly greenish and rather splintery, and flow into a warm tannic finish. Quite young, lively, and has nice aging potential, revolving more around power than finesse at present.
2 stars

Manzone Paolo Meriame Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable oaky cedar that at present overshadows, and some red berry fruit. On the palate it’s ample and fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit that emerges from vanilla laced bitterness that is from oak, and supported by tannins that have a considerable cedary overlay. It’s very youn in an international key and needs a couple of years to come together; if you like the style it has potential.
2 stars

Tenuta Illuminata

Tenuta Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is a bit musty, with wet paper and some cedar; the wood marks it and not as well as it might. On the palate it’s savory, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity with come vanilla laced bitterness, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a splintery finish. It’s very young, and needs at least a couple of years to come together and develop.
1 star

Commendator Burlotto

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, and quite intense, with what a fellow taster calls stewed tomatoes; it has a vegetal overlay with some Moroccan leather and spice, with some floral accents as well. On the palate it’s savory and rather dilute, with moderately intense mineral more than fruit, supported by minerality and savory notes that flow into a fairly long decidedly savory finish. I’d have liked more oomph and verve, though it has a feeling of being in mid-stride and  may become rather ethereal with time.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with dusky cedar mingled with rosa canina and some spice, also some berry fruit and some cedar. Pleasant and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it’s full, with lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that are full and fairly smooth, and by nice acidity that flows into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. It’s quite young, and will do interesting things with time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim; the wine is a bit paler than some. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather vegetal, with some greenish spice and moderate spur berry fruit with some floral accents as well. Pleasant though quite young. On the palate it’s pleasant, with greenish red berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, flowing into a youthful greenish finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and shows considerable promise. Something to seek out, set aside, and wait for.
2 stars

Coppo

Coppo Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mineral and some chemical notes, and light floral accents, there are also herbal notes. Not as clean as it might be. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather savory, with a slight burr to them.
1 star

Ciabot Berton

Ciabot Berton Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with an initial rush of black olives that predominate over most everything else; with time some floral accents also emerge. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are clean and fairly bright, and flow into a warm cherry finish. It’s quite young and straight forward, needs time, and may become interesting.
2 stars

Ciabot Berton Roggieri Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. Darker than many. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with greenish cedary notes mingled with some floral accents, violets and lavender, and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate sour cherry fruit blanketed by cedary tannins that lay a veneer over the palate and flow into a  splintery oaky finish. Lots of oak, and if you like that you will like the wine. But you have to be a fan of oak.
1 star

Ciabot Berton Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith cut flowers and some Moroccan leather mingled with spice. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and warmth. Quick to write, but pleasant, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cascina Cucco

Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intensely cedar laced, to the exclusion of most everything else. The palate reflects the nose, with considerable cedar that overshadows the fruit, and flows into a long warm cedar laced finish. Oak in a glass, and if you like that you will like the wine.
1 star

Cascina Cucco Cerrati Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some spice mingled with some greenish accents; it’s very young and the nose is still developing. On the palate it’s more interesting, with rather bitter red berry fruit supported by shadowy minerality and spice, and by tannins that are bitter and splintery. It’s more a work in progress than a wine, and needs 2-3 years to be presentable. But it has potential.
2 stars

Cascina Chicco Rocche di Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with some animal tang mingled with some wet paper and the finger paints I used as a child; it’s very young but not as clean as I had hoped. On the palate it’s fairly full, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by warm strawberry acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth; the palate is more interesting than the nose, and I would give it a year for the nose to catch up, or perhaps two. The substance is there.
2 stars

Rivetto

Rivetto Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim; it’s darker than most. The bouquet is rather chemical, with some cedar and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate fruit that revolves more around minerality than much else. I’d have liked more richness to the fruit, which is lacking in some acidity,.
1 star

Poderi Colla

Poderi Colla Dardi le Rose Bussia Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with some tomato paste and moderate spice, mingled with some savory accents as well. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, with a cedary underpinning that’s slightly greenish. I’d have liked more verve.
1 star

Bosco Agostino

Bosco Agostino La Serra Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and not as clan as it might be, rather brackish with some greenish notes and some graphite shavings. On the palate it’s sour, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that’s completely overshadowed by the oak, which dries the palate before it gets to the finish.
1 star

Bosco Agostino Neirane Barolo DOCG 2008
Fairly pale garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some floral accents and to a greater degree vegetal accents that contribute some spice too. On the palate it’s ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a fairly long splintery finish. It’s fairly straight forward and quite young, and also more interesting on the palate than the nose, though I am not sure how well the nose will clean up with time. I’d give it a couple of years, because it may go places.
2 stars

Roccheviberti

Roccheviberti Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2008
Almandine garnet with black reflections and almandine rim; it’s one of the paler wines. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar, more than I expected from the color, and some vegetal accents, while there isn’t much in the way of fruit. On the palate it’s ample and softer than expected with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by fairly cheeky sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a warm burr, and flow into a warm cherry finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and I’d give it a couple of years to come together, because it may well do interesting things.
2 stars

Josetta Saffirio

Josetta Saffirio Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections; its hue is distinct with respect to the majority. The bouquet is also a bit unusual, with cassis and bell pepper, and some floral accents as well. On the palate it’s ample and quite soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. It’s fairly atypical, with a sweetness to the tannins and also a polished smoothness that isn’t what I necessarily expect to find in a Nebbiolo.
1 star

Josetta Saffirio Persiera Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim; it’s much darker and brings to mind the Baroli of the fully modernist period, 10 years ago. The bouquet is moderately intense with some greenish cedar and moderately intense spice, with some berry fruit, including blueberry and currant. On the palate it’s more savory than I expected, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by warm splintery tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright sour berry fruit finish with some currents too. The nose and the palate are distinct, and while it is fairly international in style, I would give it a couple of years to come together. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Josetta Saffirio Barolo Millenovecento 48 Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe plum currant fruit supported by some greenish spice. On the palate it’s ample, and soft, with moderate fruit, supported by minerality and tannins that are dry and flow into a dry tannic finish. Lacks fruit.
1 star

Tenuta Rocca

Tenuta Rocca San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with currants and some floral accents mingled with India ink and some vegetal notes. It’s going in many directions and not quite as clean as it could be. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate sour more mineral than sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are ample and quite splintery, flowing into a splintery tannic finish. Lots of oak and I’d have liked more brightness to the fruit to contrast it.
1 star

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and oaky, with greenish cedary accents supported by some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and soft,with ith moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, working from below the surface as it were, though they emerge in the finish, which is quite dry.
1 star

Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG 2007
An IGP Selection
Black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather green, with some underlying plum cherry fruit and hints of wet plaster with some sweetness as well. On the palate it’s ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by fresh cherry fruit supported by bright acidity that starts out slowly but then emerges, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink now though it is still coming together, and will also age nicely for a number of years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenuta Rocca San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry plum fruit supported by clean slightly greenish vegetal accents, and by some spice as well. On the palate it’s ample and fairly bright, with lively sour cherry acidity and fairly intense minerality, which flows into a fairly dry sour berry fruit finish.
1 star

Parusso

Parusso Bussia Barolo DOCG 2008
An IGP Selection
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of oak, almost the barrel slat variety with some bitter cocoa, and it brings to mind the modern-style wines of 10-15 years ago. On the palate it’s ample, ruipe, and soft, with prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that atart smooth, and then become quite dry, flowing into a finish that has some cola accents, which are wood-fruit interaction. A big old-style Modernista wine of a sort one doesn’t encounter much now. But well made, and it does display a certain opulent grace; if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Parusso Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some jammy accents mingled with tart berry fruit and greenish vegetal notes that bring the heather of a cut field to mind. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitter accents. Pleasant, though I would have liked a little more verve to the acidity.
2 stars

Parusso Le Coste – Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and cherry ruby rim; it’s darker than many. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and some balsamic notes, with some strawberry acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with plum fruit, which is supported by slight minerality more than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a  sweet cedar laced finish. Lacks acidity and verve, and though harmonious is fairly settled.
1 star

Parusso Mariondino Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit odd, with balsamic notes mingled with rhubarb and some vegetal accents; there’s not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, with cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and tongue bending tannins that flow into a very tannic finish. Not enough fruit for the structure. It needs at least a couple of more years to come together, but with the relatively low acidity I wonder how it will hold.
1 star

Ettore Germano

Ettore Germano Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with fairly rich rhubarb and greenish accents mingled with some greenish notes and underlying bitterness. On the palate it’s fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour cherry finish. It’s big, but has a brightness to the fruit and acidity that is pleasant, and will work nicely if you like fairly large wines that also have direction.
2 stars

Ettore Germano Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2008
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some toasted hazelnut with greenish spicy accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and fairly sweet, with sour prune fruit supported by sweetness and some mineral acidity, while the tannins are ample and rather blocky, and flow into a sour rather tannic finish with licorice root accents. It’s big and rather blocky, and needs a year or two to get its act together, and works nicely in the finish.
2 stars

Ettore Germano Prapò Barolo DOCG 2008
Black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather rustic, with considerable barnyard tang and some greenish accents; there’s not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, with moderately intense mineral laced plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that ave bitter graphite shaving notes and flow into a long bitter finish.
1 star

Ettore Germano Lazzarito Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with rosa canina and some floral accents, and also some sea salt; it’s harmonious and fairly deft, but not really rich. On the palate it’s ample, with moderate fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish.
2 stars

La Spinona

La Spinona Sorì Gepin Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and disjointed, with floral accents, cut flowers, and also spice and aromas that are form wood that’s not as clean as it should be. On the palate it’s riper than one might have expected, with plum cherry fruit supported by savory graphite shaving laced acidity and by tannins that are warm and savory, and flow into a savory slightly greenish rather bitter finish. It’s a bit disjointed, and needs time to come together.
2 stars

Roberto Sarotto

Roberto Sarotto Audace Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar mingled with some spice and not much fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather sweet, one of the sweetest wines in the tasting, with prune cherry fruit supported by coffee ground bitterness that’s oak and by vanilla laced tannins that flow into a fairly long sweet tannic finish. It’s quite particular, and a wine that you will like or not, though I find it atypical for Barolo.

Tenuta Arnulfo

Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barolo DOCG 2008
Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some spice. Pleasant, in a fairly tart key. On the palate it’s bright, and fairly ripe, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some sweetness, while the tannins are warm and slightly greenish, with a burr that flows into a clean sour cherry finish. It’s fairly direct, but pleasant, and will need a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Sobrero

Sobrero Barolo Pernanno Barolo Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky cedar accents mingled with hardwood ash and some wood toast; there’s not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it’s ample and rather soft, and needs time to come together still.
1 star

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About Cosa Bolle in Pentola

Italy boasts an astonishing number of varietals, denominations, and wines, and tremendous changes are sweeping the land. New wines are being created, new DOCs are being introduced, and the existing denominations are overhauling their regulations both to reflect the practices adopted by their member wineries and to favor improvements in quality. Even the most staid and stolid region can flower seemingly overnight, emerging with exciting new wines and wineries that require rewriting the enological maps and rethinking one's positions. And, of course, recipes too, because cuisine and wine are closely intertwined and it's difficult to imagine one without the other.
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