Last year we visited Cordero di Montezemolo, and though one generally tries to visit new places when one returns to a region, I was very happy to see them again; they are extremely pleasant and the location is beautiful, high on a ridge crest looking towards Serralunga (which is quite a ways off). The others talked, while I took pictures, and when we were ready we sat to taste a couple of wines.
I was especially impressed by a 1998 Enrici VI, from a vintage that I have never thoght too much of – when it was released it came n the heels of the wildly hyped 1997, and was followed by one of my favorite vintages bar none, the 1999 – but should probably rethink my opinion of, because this wine greatly impressed me.
Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo 2008
Lively almandine ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina and some red berry fruit with some cedar as well. Harmonious but still coming together. On the palate it’s bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright savory tannins and fairly rich sour cherry acidity, and flows into a fairly long sour cherry acidity finish with lasting slightly bitter savory undertones. Pleasant but very young, and needs at least a couple of years if not more to come together and begin to show its best.
Cordero di Montezemolo Bricco Gattera Barolo 2008
This is from the vineyard below the Lebanese cedar tree, and has slightly more new wood. Deep cherry ruby with ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and fairly sweet, with elegant cherry fruit supported by spice and slight berry fruit acidity. Quite pleasant and displays considerable elegance. On the palate it’s full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet with some greenish cedary accents that will fold in with time, and flow into a long bright rather spicy, almost peppery finish. Graceful, with something of a voluptuous note, and quite approachable though very, very young. Quite elegant, and will reward those with patience.
Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is quite young, and a bit disjointed, with oak and wood that have yet to come together yet. On the palate it’s impressive, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a long clean cherry finish with some barrel sample bitterness that provides direction. It’s a work in progress, but very fine and will be spectacular in 3-5 years, and age well for a great many more years. Most impressive, but do give it time, because it needs it.
Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo 1998
Elegant almandine ruby with black reflections, ruby highlights, and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich rosa canina mingled with mentholated accents and pleasant spice; considerable depth and elegance, and very fresh. On the palate it’s equally fresh, with powerful berry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Terrific elegance and finesse, and a wine that one would never guess is 14. Impressive, and a wine that will age well for much, much longer.